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Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World, by George Greenstein
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For more than twenty years, George Greenstein owned and operated a Long Island bakery that produced all sorts of baked goods, from all sorts of ethnic traditions—focaccia and Irish soda bread, Bavarian pumpernickel and naan—including many from his own culture, such as Jewish corn bread, challah, and bagels. His bakery was one of those neighborhood treasures where every weekday evening commuters picked up brown paper bags filled with a dozen Vienna rolls straight from the oven, and every weekend morning lines extended out the door for hours.In this James Beard Award-winning cookbook, Greenstein reveals 125 recipes for the yeasted and quick breads that have been handed down through his family by three generations of bakers—the breads that made his bakery so well-loved for so many years. And now that most neighborhood bakeries like Greenstein's are long since closed, this classic collection serves not only to teach bakers everywhere how to make those delicious, classic breads, but it also preserves authentic versions of the included Jewish recipes for all to enjoy.With the same helpful features that made this a cherished cookbook upon its original publication—separate instructions for mixing each recipe by hand, food processor, and stand mixer; tips for baking a week's worth of bread in as few as two hours; invaluable baker's secrets; and a very approachable style throughout—this revised edition also includes twelve new recipes to satisfy both old fans and new. So bring the spirit of that great old bakery back to life right in your very own kitchen, filling every room of your house with the wonderful aroma of freshly baked bread. And rest assured you'll bake with ease and success every time, thanks to George and his long-learned, very happily shared SECRETS OF A JEWISH BAKER.
- Sales Rank: #74860 in eBooks
- Published on: 2013-05-15
- Released on: 2013-05-15
- Format: Kindle eBook
From Publishers Weekly
Amateur bread bakers of every skill level will love Greenstein's collection of recipes that demonstrate his natural skill at teaching as well as baking (he operated a Jewish bakery in Long Island for more than 20 years). Excellent opening chapters on ingredients, tools and techniques, from kneading basics to microwave tricks and tips on identifying how a bread failed, are followed by well-chosen beginner loaves; the remaining recipes are divided into potato and corn breads, a catch-all "international" category ranging from Bavarian Farmer Bread to Indian naan, and chapters on sourdoughs, small breads and quick breads. Recipes like focaccia and Irish soda bread may be overly familiar, but Greenstein also offers such a delightful array of unusual breads, like sesame-flavored Greek Psomi or the scone-like Singing Hinny, that even expert bakers will find something new. Twelve menus for "mornings of baking" each yield enough breads to last throughout the week, aiming at time-pressed bakers, though even the experienced may have difficulty fitting the work into one morning. Despite the title, stereotypically Jewish breads are a minority, but Greenstein takes care to tell how to make most recipes kosher; bakers of all religions will appreciate the inclusion of guidelines for mixing dough in the food processor or stand mixer alongside the traditional method, as well as numerous v ariation ideas. Greenstein's expert guidance puts homemade bread within reach of anyone intimidated by the process, and makes baking a treat again for those who thought they had tried every loaf. This publication is an updated version of
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Review
“An essential purchase for anyone serious about baking bread.” —Newsday“Packed with wisdom and useful tips.”—Baltimore Sun “There are many excellent bread books, but only a few for the serious home baker are truly must-have. This is one of them. George Greenstein's knowledge is in his bones, in his hands, and in his heart. It all comes through in this classic collection of indispensable recipes and master techniques.”—Peter Reinhart, author of The Bread Baker's Apprentice“You could scratch the adjective ‘Jewish' from the title of SECRETS OF A JEWISH BAKER . Although Mr. Greenstein, a professional baker, happens to be Jewish, he has written a fairly comprehensive general bread-baking book.”—Florence Fabricant, New York Times“While other bakers aim to educate readers about the nature of bread, Greenstein's purpose is purely gustatory. He wants us to bake, eat, and enjoy.”—Vegetarian Times
From the Publisher
* The highly accessible classic baking book that includes 140 failsafe recipes for yeasted and quick breads, revised with 12 new recipes for breads like whole-grain challah and pretzels.
* Winner of the 1994 James Beard award for Best Baking and Dessert Cookbook.
* Features 12 programs for "a morning of baking"--strategic directions to bake a family's bread for a week, turning out five different breads in as few as two hours.
* Each bread has separate instructions for mixing by hand, food processor, and stand mixer.
Most helpful customer reviews
91 of 94 people found the following review helpful.
Perfect for the serious baker
By H. Grove (errantdreams)
The point of "Secrets of a Jewish Baker" is not just to provide you with recipes, but rather to help you create professional-quality loaves in your own kitchens. If you find you have difficulty making a truly light and airy loaf of bread, a whole-grain loaf that's tasty as well as nutritious, or a crusty loaf like your favorite baker's, you won't have any trouble with these tasks by the time you've made a few recipes from this book.
The book opens with wonderful notes on basic materials you'll need (as well as optional ones), ingredients, special bakers' techniques, handy tricks and tips to make things easier on yourself, and even a trouble-shooting section to help you figure out what might have gone wrong with a loaf of bread and how to fix it. Usually such sections teach me nothing new; here I definitely learned things.
As for the recipes, they come out nothing short of stunning. The cheese bread disappeared so fast you'd think it had been a figment of our imaginations. Most surprisingly for me, the cracked wheat bread and bran bread disappeared just as quickly-I think of bran as tasteless and unappealing, but these healthy breads were moist, tender, and delicious. The coffee cake made a yummy (if rather sinful) breakfast, as did the peach streusel muffins. The techniques for creating great crusts worked like magic, particularly on the Irish raisin bread, which was similarly delightful.
The book includes a handful of morning "programs" of baking that interleave instructions for several recipes at once, enabling you to easily make a week's worth of bread in one morning. This worked beautifully for us. The recipes also include variations designed for the food processor and the six-quart stand mixer, with different ratios of ingredients to take advantage of those items' form-factors; thus you can easily adapt the recipes to the equipment you have on hand. My only warning is that the stand mixer recipes seem sized to the new, heaviest-duty six-quart stand mixers, so be sure to double-check your mixer's rating for how many cups of flour it can tolerate. (You can always use his basic recipe amounts in your stand mixer if it won't tolerate the higher-quantity mixer variations.)
This is a stunning bread cookbook, particularly for anyone who wants to make professional-quality breads in their home kitchen, or who wants recipes for healthy, whole-grain breads that taste amazing!
55 of 55 people found the following review helpful.
Fantastic book for new bakers
By Lazy Cook
I'm somewhat new to bread baking and I found this book to be informative and flexible with its recipes and directions. I started with the King Arthur Baker's Companion, but was a bit discouraged by the lack of variation in the recipes (mostly white wheat flour, lots of dairy, great chemistry review but not as much direction as I needed). This book, on the other hand, lists a white and whole wheat variation for almost every recipe, recommends substitutes to keep the recipes kosher/dairy free, and has a variation for food processor/steel blade and stand mixer for almost every recipe. The chapters include: basic materials, bread making from A to Z, basic yeast bread, corn and potato based breads, breads of all nations, sourdough breads, rolls, biscuits and muffins, quick breads, and twelve menus of baking. I've followed several recipes and have had great success with all. I've been trying to make a 6-braided challah without success for a few weeks now; I had followed written directions and watched videos that helped but always left me hanging mid-braid, but the directions in this book made it so simple to understand that I had it down in minutes. Now I can't see what was so hard about it! Finally, my son can't have dairy or soy, and so the recommended substitutes and notes when a dairy ingredient are optional in a recipe are really helpful.
54 of 56 people found the following review helpful.
A real Keeper!
By Grandma
I still remember the first time I saw someone make bread. I had spent the night at Nana's and woke up in the morning to find her in the kitchen putting loaves of homemade bread into the oven. The was a big bowl full of puffy dough on the little shelf behind the stove. Quick as a wink, she turned that into my then-favorite thing in all of the world: her Kuchen. Three kinds - streusel, apple and peach! I was about three I think. I started turning out my own bread around the age of 10, simple things mostly - cornbread from the 4H recipe, Moravian Sugar Cake (such fun to poke the holes and fill them with brown sugar) and the Cranberry Bread for Thanksgiving - and I've been baking bread ever since. There is no easier & faster way to trim your grocery bill than to make your own bread.
Along the way I've also been collecting cookbooks - I now own something on the order of 400 or so, many going back 100 years or so. Quite some few of those are collections of bread recipes from names you know like James Beard and Peter Reinhart and people you've never heard of. Most of them line the walls in my living room and kitchen. Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World is my latest addition and in an instant it has won my heart. Certainly it would have a prominent place in my All Time Favorite Cookbooks list - probably in the Top Five. And if I could own just one bread book, this would have to be the one!
Some while back Peter Reinhart taught me to bake bagels (finally!) from his The Bread Baker's Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread. Not a week goes by that I don't produce at least one batch. I've made all of Peter's variations and then invented a few of my own using a locally grown whole wheat flour. ) So, I practically jumped out of my chair when I saw that Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World contained an authentic recipe for Onion Rye bagels, one of my long time favorites but almost impossible to find. I made those the very afternoon the book arrived, even though my freezer is full. The entire neighborhood feasted! Next up - George's recipe for rye sourdough starter and some authentic Jewish Rye bread.
I've been making a Jewish Sourdough Rye for a couple of decades now using my wheat flour sourdough starter - and it is lovely. George's rye sourdough starter was a revelation though - easy as the dickens to start with great rise and odor. I just took a batch of bread out of the oven made according to the recipe from Secrets of a Jewish Baker and it is stunningly good. (Yes, I sure will make it again!) And there are at least two dozen more recipes I'm going to try, but I'm out of rye flour and need a few other things.
George Greenstein comes from a family tradition of baking and has spent decades of his life as a master baker. He gives excellent recipes for all of your favorite breads, including some unusual breads that good recipes for are nearly impossible to find and a few you've never heard of, recipes that appear nowhere else in all of my collection.
I've been a bit surprised to see a couple of criticisms - first that there are no pictures and secondly that the book (horrors!) uses the common volumetric measures found in every household in America. To those who complain about lack of pictures, let me just say that virtually none of the classics that have withstood the test of time have much in the way of pictures other than a line drawing or two to explain how to cut up a chicken or roll out puff pastry. Pictures add greatly to the cost of a book without adding a whole lot in the way of explanation.
More important is this horribly mistaken idea that good bread can only - MUST only - be made by weighing the ingredients with extreme accuracy. Nothing could be further from the truth. I happen to be a medical scientist. Back when I was at university I had a chemistry professor who would wail, rail and cringe every time one of us mentioned microbiology, calling it "witchcraft" rather than "science". Chemistry is extremely accurate. Microbiology is art & instinct. Working with yeast is microbiology. When you are working in a professional bakery, turning out 200 loaves of the same bread in a single batch that starts with two 100 pound bags of flour, then obviously weighing the other ingredients is the way to go. This is not true in the small batch home kitchen.
Bread baking is quite similar to making fine wine. It all starts with the wheat. Every bag of flour that you buy is different - even bags of the same brand. Flour varies from year to year, season to season. It is affected by rain and sun, where it was grown, how it was milled, how it was stored, how old it is and much, much more. Even the humidity in your kitchen can change the properties of the flour you are using. What absorbs 1 cup of water today might need an extra two tablespoons tomorrow. Today your bread might cook in 25 minutes even though it took 30 minutes day before yesterday. Judging how much is enough is about touch and smell and appearance, not weights on a scale. Anybody who tells you that you need a digital scale to bake good bread isn't much of a baker. George Greenstein won't tell you that. He will, however, help you learn to judge for yourself.
Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World includes several features that are worth their weight in gold, things I have seen nowhere else. George has taken the time to give instructions for each recipe for mixing by hand, mixing in a large food processor or using a heavy duty stand mixer. He has been careful to give alternate ingredients where appropriate - changes to make a recipe kosher for a non-dairy meal, substitutions for first clear flour (very hard to find!) and so on. He tells us about various kinds of yeast, but gives amounts in both packets and tablespoons. (I haven't bought a packet of yeast in 30 years or so, but they are convenient if you are just starting.) The book is full of tips about freezing your baked goods & keeping biscuits on hand to slice & bake as needed. George includes an entire section outlining the process of turning out a half dozen loaves of bread and a couple dozen rolls/muffins in a single morning, as well as his recipe for a bread glaze that turns out the prettiest loaves I have ever made.
If I have one single quibble it would be this: I have no idea where George got his Baking Powder Biscuit recipe, but it is the single leanest biscuit that I have ever seen, what we used to call poverty biscuit when I was a military wife, the kind of biscuit you whisper shortening over and call it good. Nowhere in all of my cookbooks can I find a single biscuit recipe that calls for only a single tablespoon of shortening. Trust me, use George's variation for "rich biscuits" when you want biscuits and if you really want rich biscuits, double the shortening called for in that.
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